Uganda adventure: Day 13

Ngamba Island in Lake Victoria houses a Chimpanzee sanctuary. Chimps who are orphaned (usually after poachers kill the parents for game meat) or abandoned by people who illegally take them in as pets are rescued and brought to the 100 acre island. About 10 acres is carved out for the boat landing, buildings, observation deck, etc - all separated from the sanctuary by a high electrified fence. The remaining land is available for the chimps to roam free. They are fed 4x daily and the keepers watch them carefully for changes in behaviour that can signal illness, injury, or changes in integration within the troop. Helping the animals to learn socialization skills is a major challenge.

Our guide explains in detail the mission and activities of the sanctuary

signposts help orient us

The goal is to leave by 8 am so we may catch the 11am feeding time on the sanctuary, but there are too many bodies to transport in the van along the rough roads, so 2 trips are necessary. The Lindsay folks are dropped off at the boat launch area which is separated from the rest of the fishing village by a fence. I get a taste of how the chimpanzees must feel, being fenced in from the action around us. The Lindsay men head out and explore the small village, making a few young friends in our travels.

activity beyond the fence is too good to pass up

Jeffrey shows the darlings their image

a typical village shop

this mom requested a family portrait

these smelt-sized fish are called "silverfish" and prized because of their nutritional value

village tyke

The fenced compound we occupy is actually land owned by a fish company. They require an area with washing stand where the catches can be inspected and set aside when they pick up seafood for transport to the city. A brother and sister follow us back and entertain us while we wait.

adventurers by Lake Victoria

natural beauty

hide & seek

Finally the van returns with Victoria and the other 3 doctors. The manager of "Grey Fish" expeditions apologizes that he only has life jackets for about half of us, and what is available has far exceeded it's "best before" date. Grey Fish is a craft typical of those used for fishing and transport on this lake. A large, deep canoe type structure which thankfully is powered (or underpowered, more precisely) by a small outboard motor. The wood benches are functional but a bailing bucket is required. A couple of the other doctors are not swimmers, so they decline the offer of crowding into this boat with the rest of us. Kevin takes them to a launch in Entebbe, where they board a speedboat for a longer (but more comfortable) journey.

There is no dock here, so these uncannily powerful men employed by Grey Fish actually pick up and carry us to the boat. This day promises to be filled with uncertainty and surprises. The boat ride takes about 90 minutes, and we pass only a few similar crafts, most of them powered by fishermen with paddles.

A guide introduces us to Chimpanzee Sanctuary and shows us the "Emergency gathering location" on the shore. In the event of an animal escape, whistles will signal the need to run to this spot and wade into the water if approached by the escapee. Apparently chimps to not like to wade or swim. We are taken up to a large cage enclosure where 3 animals who are too aggressive to be presently integrated into the general troup reside. Now we appreciate the need for all these precautions. These animals are far different from the spunky monkeys who frolic on the lawn and roofs of Banana Village. Large, powerful and extremely quick - they certainly could pose a danger to humans.

We are quizzed to make sure we understand the whistle signals

monitor lizards, about 1 metre in length, prowl the lawns and shoreline but avoid getting close to humans

time behind bars until his aggression can be curbed

veterinary clinic which includes x-ray and surgical facilities

secure runway from the free range area to the caged enclosure

The island would soon be fully populated were the chimps allowed to breed, so the females are temporarily sterilized with contraceptive hormone implants. The ultimate goal is to transplant a troop of these rescued animals to a game preserve area once they are deemed sufficiently well socialized and structured to survive without constant care and supervision.

We miss the 11 am feeding and the other 3 docs have not yet arrived, so Victoria has us pile back into the canoe and take the short trip to the larger neighbour island. Her family owns about 3/4 of the 400 acre island, and her obvious pride shows as she marches us up a recently-cleared jungle pathway to her father's homestead. The building is crumbling after years of neglect, but we appreciate the immense natural beauty with a great view of the lake, several paths heading in various directions, and many fruit trees. We meet Ronald, the Bright Kid whom Dan, Nadine & family sponsor. He was born on this island and is now a great help to Victoria overseeing it's preservation and the care of the few cattle which remain.

the old homestead

settled in for picnic lunch

Ronald shows off a lemon. We marvel at the intense fragrance.

small fishing hamlet on Victoria's island

other boats similar to Grey Fish

Returning to the sanctuary, we find the 3 doctors waiting. We walk up to the platform in time for the 3 pm feeding. Behind the high electrified fence, we gradually perceive members of the troup in trees or ambling out to the small clearing. The keepers toss fruits and vegetables, and there is surprisingly little squabbling over the treasures. A few chunks of food bounce off the fence and land on our side. A couple of enterprising animals grab long sticks and use those to carefully knock the fruit into their territory.

is it almost feeding time?

pick me!

We have the wind at our backs for the return journey, but it seems longer because the swells are higher and our captain needs to repeatedly slow down traversing the larger waves to prevent worrisome tipping of the craft. Back at the mainland launch place another group of kids poses for my camera. I stop at BKU to admire the section of wall mural now completed by our Lindsay crew and I'm pleased to see my name added but embarrassed to admit I did not raise a single paintbrush to the effort.