In Search of the Nile

 

February 18 – Day 5

Breakfast at the hotel is very tasty, and we are getting more proficient at packing up the van, so we’re on the road by 9:15.  We head northeast for Masindi, at the entrance to Murchison Falls National Park.

 

Nyaika Hotel is very modern, probably the best we have stayed at in Uganda

We pass by offices for a few aid and development organizations and wonder how much negative impact Uganda will experience from Donald Trump’s cancellation of USAID funds.  The US has provided about $350M annually to this nation, which has helped bring about major improvements in morbidity and mortality from HIV, tuberculosis, and infectious diseases.  Some of the implementing partners in Uganda include Medical Access Uganda limited, Joint Clinical Research Centre, Joint Medical Store, Infectious Disease Institute, Makerere University, World Food Programme, World Health Organisation among others.  Thousands of staff and scientists have already been furloughed, included our beloved friend, nurse Rose.

 

We are passing scattered mud hut enclaves, and after a few hours we at Hoima, which seems to be a larger, bustling city.  Davis tells us that it has grown significantly in the past few years, mainly thanks to an influx of money from oil drilling operations.  There are multiple petroleum tankers on the roadways, and evidence of pipeline construction activity.  On the eastern edge of the city, we pass by a huge stadium complex under construction.

We pass a martyrs' shrine, harking back to previous tribal wars

 

One of the gas stations we visit for a pee break has a family cemetery behind the pit latrine.  Graves are marked by a small pile of stones typical of families with meagre means.

The stone piles are grave markers.  Bodies are buried soon after death.  It is rare to have embalming or a wake with visitation.  The Muslims practice cremation.

 

At Masindi we load up with cases of water then embark for the park gate.  Despite pre-paying the park fees of USD $45 each per night, there is at least a half hour delay while the guards check everything over.

 

From there it is about an hour drive to the entrance for Sambiya Resort, our home for the next 2 nights.  Speed limit of 40 km/hr is strictly enforced throughout the park, for the safety of the wildlife and there are multiple speed bumps.

Baboon sightings are common in the park

 

The main lodge building is beautiful.  We are welcomed by Annie, the hostess, and advised that electricity is limited, provided by a combination of solar power and a generator, so no power is available between mealtimes and also from 1 to 4 am.  Accommodations are in little huts which are quite luxurious, including a fairly modern bathroom and both indoor and outdoor showers!

We quickly unload our bags then head into the main part of the park (about a 40 minute drive), over a new bridge (no more ferry across the Nile) and past Paara lodge.  We’re thrilled to see water bucks, a couple of varieties of antelopes, elephants off in the distance and some water buffalo.  It soon is twilight, and we are treated by a closeup view of a group of elephants near the main road, but unfortunately it is too dark for photos.  To the north, we are impressed by a line of fires along a distant ridge, which must have been ¼ km in length.  Generally fires in the park are controlled burns to replenish the grasslands.

Water bucks scattered in the field

Sunset over the Nile

Water buffalo

Come a little bit closer

Get outa here, buddy

Oribi antelope.  These little guys are quite skittish

Kob antelope.  Davis says they are the dumbest creatures in the park.

Impressive fires on a distant ridge

 The buffet supper at Sambiya is well appreciated, as we are all by now quite famished, and we retire early to bed in anticipation of tomorrow’s early morning game drive.