Lake Mboro National Park

Sunday morning we’re up by 5 am to prepare for our departure.  True to his word, Joshua has come in early to open the BV kitchen and provide us with a warm breakfast.  We pile into Davis’ waiting SUV and head out after refueling in Entebbe.  The newly-constructed bypass highway allows us to miss most of the morning traffic jam heading into Kampala, but things get a little more bogged down on the outskirts where we join our road to the west.  We make a short stop at the Equator village, and Nick debates the attendant on the validity of Coriolis forces affecting the flow of water down the funnels.

Nick experiments with direction of water flow in north & south hemispheres

local girl collecting washroom fees at the Equator

The little café delights us with iced coffee and latte choices, then we’re back on our way through the rural countryside of lush farmland.

countryside enroute to Lake Mburo

roadside butcher shop

charcoal for sale

The roads remain good until we turn off to drive the 14 km or so to the Lake Mburo park gate, which takes an hour or more.  The park fee of $30 USD per Canadian plus 30,000 shillings for Davis buys us 24 hours of access.  We’re pleased to spot zebras, water bucks, buffalo, and a variety of bird species on our way to the lakeshore.

Lunch is freshly prepared, reflected in the 45-minute wait after ordering.  Our food arrives just at the 4 pm departure time posted for the tour boat, but the staff reassure us the vessel will await us finishing our lunches.  Monkeys and warthogs entertain us on the lawns around the restaurant.

tour boat awaits us as we await lunch

The boat trip involves many great sightings of hippos, along with fish eagles, kingfishers, crocodiles and water fowl.  It’s amazing how a large group of massive hippos can suddenly completely submerge and disappear.

this croc is extremely fast heading into the water as we approach

Our lodging for the night is at the Rwakobo Rock resort, just outside the park gate, and we arrive at dusk.  There is a beautiful central dining hall and reception perched on the high rock overlooking a watering hole and ranch lands which extend for many kilometres.  The lighting in our huts is solar powered, but the battery has run low and lights were left on during the day, so we arrive in virtual darkness.  We were very fortunate to have remembered to pack flashlights, and the staff provide us with oil lamps in lieu of solar lighting.  The full board dinner is delicious, and everyone sleeps well except for Alicia.

Monday is another early wakening, with a quick breakfast and heading out to the park gate for the 7:30 opening.  We head out on some of the side trails and worry that the vehicle may become impossibly stuck in some of the muddy patches, but Davis proves more than equal to the task of driving us on this off-road adventure.  Giraffes were only just being re-introduced to the park when Susan was last here in 2015, so we are keen to spot some of the dozen or so inhabitants, but discussions with some of the guides we meet, and the park staff fail to provide any reports of earlier sightings.

We do find a couple of small ponds where buffalo are enjoying a mud bath, and another couple where hippos are making a home.  One guy treats us to some wide-open mouth posturing.

a hippo on land is an intimidating sight

this guy thought our van provided a nice perch

With time running out before our hard deadline to vacate, Nick suddenly shouts out and we spot a graceful brown neck about three hundred metres away.  Fortunately, the winding trail brings us within 70 m or so of these beautiful, gentle giants.  In total, there are six giraffes who meander across the field in front of us, pausing to briefly munch on leaves or grasses, or simply seemingly post for our cameras.

Returning to the lodge, we grab a late lunch then Nick drops out for a nap while Alan & Sue start to lounge by the pool.  When news of a staff volleyball game circulates, Davis and Alan head over to join in the match.  A lively game of Jenga follows dinner, our skills no doubt enhanced by a round of tequila shots.  Happily finding our solar battery has been recharged to provide lighting, everyone settles in for a good sleep, except Alicia, who’s been struggling to sleep well.

Tuesday, we depart around 10:00 and make a few stops in villages along the highway to purchase ground nuts (like peanuts which are dried in the sun rather than roasted), mangos and fresh pineapple which the vendor kindly slices for us.  All these treats are packed with intense flavour.  Davis has a tough time negotiating reasonable prices, with a car full of mzungus.

We stop for a rest on the outskirts of Kampala and are caught in an impressive electrical storm and downpour.  Jackie has been contacted by the grandmother of Olivia, Gloria, Daniel and Jovan.  This family of 4 siblings was orphaned when their father murdered their mother in 2012.  We met them at the Bright Kids home on our first visit to Uganda, and have fallen in love with them.  The grandmother has indicated she is prepared to keep the children home with her, but would require support above her means to do so.

Olivia, Gloria (back), Jovan & Daniel

Jackie meets us in their village after picking up some food supplies, and we make our way to their home.  We're thrilled to be reunited with these great children, but disappointed to hear that Grandma left to visit a sick friend and is being held up by the torrential rain.  The kids show us family albums and relate how happy they are to be reunited with their extended family.  We decide to bring their case to our Kulikayo board to see if there is general agreement to take them on.

Daniel is reluctant to leave Alicia's lap

Olivia shows some photos to Jackie while a neighbour friend looks on

Nick & Gloria

One last hug before we leave

Reaching Entebbe at suppertime, we Google a restaurant which may have vegan options, and settle on Faze 3, which is on the shores of Lake Victoria.  Everyone is happy with their menu choices, but the lighting on the patio needs to be extinguished for about 10 minutes at dusk to avoid being inundated by the winged insects who come in off the lake every evening at that time.

We did score some cold beer and Amaretto at Victoria Mall, but Sue, Nick & Jackie have limited stamina and retire after 1 drink, while Alicia & Alan join some German folks who are dancing and enjoying music in the conference room.